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The most photographed village on Lake Garda: medieval lanes, the Scaliger castle rising sheer above the water, and the rotating cable car up Monte Baldo.
Malcesine is what everyone pictures when they think of Lake Garda: a maze of stone lanes rising from the little harbour, and at the top the Scaliger Castle planted on a spur of rock that juts into the water. Goethe was arrested here in 1786 while sketching it, mistaken for a spy: he recounts it himself in his Italian Journey.
From the village runs the Monte Baldo cable car, its cabins rotating on their own axis during the ascent: in ten minutes you rise from 90 to 1,760 metres, and the lake unfurls below like a map. At the top, trails, paragliding and — in winter — the ski slopes.
The old harbour, the Palazzo dei Capitani with its Venetian loggia, the little squares that open up all of a sudden: Malcesine is best explored on foot, without a map, letting yourself get lost.
A tower, ramparts and the view that captivated Goethe. Inside, the natural history museum of Monte Baldo and Lake Garda.
Rotating cabins up to 1.760 metres. At the top: trails, rare blooms and the whole lake beneath your feet.
Wooden boats, pastel-coloured houses and the Venetian loggia of the Palazzo dei Capitani. The most photogenic spot on the lake.
Ride the cable car in the late afternoon: the light is warm, the crowds have thinned and the sunset from Monte Baldo is worth the trip.
Stay in Brenzone and reach this and the other spots on the lake, even by water.