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Two towns in one, with a valley of ancient paper mills and the ferry linking it to the Verona shore.
Toscolano and Maderno are two villages that grew up together. Maderno has the beach, the harbour and the twelfth-century Romanesque church of Sant’Andrea, with its carved capitals and pink marble. Toscolano, on the other hand, holds something unique on the lake: the Paper Mill Valley.
It is a narrow gorge where paper was made for seven hundred years: dozens of mills along the stream, today partly ruins and partly a museum. You explore it on foot, among stone buildings devoured by ivy, small waterfalls and basins. A cool spot even at the height of August, and strangely moving.
From Maderno departs the ferry to Torri del Benaco: the only one that also carries cars across the lake.
Seven hundred years of mills along a stream, today a museum and trail. Cool, green and surprising.
A Romanesque church from the twelfth century in pink marble, with carved capitals. Small and precious.
The direct link to the Verona shore: half an hour of sailing, cars included.
The Paper Mill Valley is the right outing on a hot day: it is in shade, there is water everywhere and the walk is flat.
Stay in Brenzone and reach this and the other spots on the lake, even by water.